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Its stone carvings and mock Grecian columns beside the window frames are a credit to another, gentler age.

The minarets perch delicately – and I had never seen this before – on square towers that might have been church towers had there been Christians in this ancient city. What no-one will tell you in Gaziantep, what no guidebook mentions, what no tourist guide will refer to, is that this very building – whose 19th century builders were none other than the nephews of the official architect of Sultan Abdulhamid II – was the Holy Mother of God cathedral for at least 20,000 Christian Armenians who were victims of the greatest war crime of the 1914-18 war: the Armenian genocide.

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The caretaker came fussing up to us to tell us that the mosque was shut, that we must leave, that this was a closed place.

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The greatest hero of Gallipoli was Mustafa Kemal who, as Ataturk, founded the modern Turkish state.

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